Are there any make-up tips to share?
Avoid heavy coverage and powder based bases as oily bases may exacerbate acne and powder compacts will highlight areas of dryness and make skin appear dull and lifeless. I love Nars sheer glow , it is light and lifts skin reflecting light away from problem areas giving the illusion and clear hydrated skin. Dark circles can be a problem as we age. Hyaluronic acid serums are light in texture but are excellent at plumping skin. When the skin around the eyes is hydrated it reflecte light better and the dark circles are less pronounced. I love Lemonaid by Benefit. It helps to neutralize dark shadows and reflects light beautifuly. Crucially it stays in place.
1.What changes or additions in our skincare routine should be made if you’re affected by pollution? Those affected by pollution the city often don’t need reminding as it is obvious when cleansing as the cleansing pad is often black
The pollution that is referred to as fine particulate matter i.e. is 2.5 microns in diameter and less. Is the most damaging as it that penetrates our skin and lungs . It is now emerging that inhaled particles will also damage skin indirectly which makes sense. The smaller particles that penetrate skin cause free radical damage which in turn leads to the breakdown of collagen and elastin. This leads to skin wrinkles and sagging. We also know from studies that pollution causes skin pigmentation and this is exacerbated by exposure to certain wavelengths of light. So if you are a city dweller it is even more important to make sure you have adequate sun protection.
Essentially any skin regime will need to include careful cleansing at the end of the day. Be careful to use a gentle cleanser however that will not strip the skin barrier as we know that pollution leaves our skin often drier , more irritated and inflamed. Choose a gentle wash that matches the skin’s mildly acidic pH . If your skin feels tight after cleansing, it is likely you have disrupted your skin barrier.
After this I recommend an active serum that contains anti-oxidants such as vitamin C , to help mitigate against free radical damage. Vitamin C also inhibits the enzyme Tyrosinase, so it helps prevent melanin production reducing pigmentation and helping to keep an even skin tone . A diet rich in anti-oxidants will also help to support skin against daily damage from UV exposure and pollution. There are some very good anti-oxidant supplements out there that will also help. Always wear a high factor sun cream. The physical blocks particularly containing iron oxide and large particle titanium dioxide and zinc oxide can help to protect against the longer wavelengths we see with visible light . We now know that visible light play a part in both damage to collagen and elastin and skin pigmentation I.e. sun spots and melasma.
I wash my face with water . Is this an issue?
On the whole no . Tap water is usually fine unless you have naturally dry or sensitive skin.
For many years now there have been studies associating hard water areas and an increase in skin dryness and an exacerbation of eczema. A recent study published in Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology looked at 1300 babies from across the UK and the author stated :”Our study builds on growing evidence of a link between exposure to hard water and the risk of developing eczema in childhood.
It’s not yet clear whether calcium carbonate has a direct detrimental effect on the skin barrier, or whether other environmental factors directly related to water hardness, such as the water’s pH, may be responsible.” As a dermatologist I am frequently told by eczema sufferers that their skin often improves when spending time in soft water areas.
What is hard water and why does it affect our skin?
Hard water is a common problem for many households. This type of water contains many minerals, particularly calcium and magnesium occurs when ground water seeps through the soil and rocks. There are many theories as to why hard water seems to cause skin dryness and irritation . It is most likely that deposits are left on the skin after washing causing irritation and there is also a suggestion that the minerals change the skin pH, disrupting the skin barrier.
Chlorine in water, especially in high concentration in swimming pools for example will definitely change skin pH and affect the skin’s natural microbiome . I always recommend rinsing swimming pool water off immediately preferably with a mildly acidic cleanser and moisturize well.
What is the story with waterless cleansers?
These waterless cleansers tend to have a skin barrier friendly pH and tend to not unbalance the skin. If the skin pH is maintained then the skin barrier is less likely to be disrupted , as a consequence skin is calmer, maintains its hydration more effectively and is less likely to be dry and irritated. This is important particularly in the context of an inflammatory skin condition such as acne or rosacea. One of the first changes I suggest to acne sufferers is to adopt a simple cleansing routine that does not strip the skin barrier . There are very gentle water sprays that do not contain the minerals that constitute so called hard water. This really can make a difference, the most likely benefit to these cleansers is the fact that the skin pH is not changed. The skin barrier is not disrupted and as a consequence skin is calm and hydrated.
The benefit of powder cleansers is that you make them up when you need to use them. A such, they do not require preservatives which is ideal if you have sensitive skin. My only concern is that some constantly exfoliate skin. Daily scrubbing can leave sensitive skin red and inflamed and can exacerbate for example visible thread veins.
